Days 22-23: Mostar

After spending a few days in Sarajevo, we departed towards Mostar to spend two nights.  Mostar is a small city in western Bosnia-Herzegovina, which is known for its famous old bridge (Stari Most), and the fierce fighting that took place in the city in the Bosnian War.

For centuries, Mostar exemplified the multi-ethnic character of Bosnia, as it had had predominantly large populations of ethnic Croats and Bosniaks, and a smaller number of Serbs.  It was known for high intermarriage rates as well.  However, after the 1990 Bosnian elections and the subsequent ethnic divisions that exploded into all-out war, Mostar became a battleground.  In 1992, Serb forces began to lay siege to the city for around 18 months.  However, in 1993, Croat forces overran the Serbs and began to shell the city from the hills that surround it.  The International Criminal Tribunal for the former Yugoslavia has accused leaders of the Croat paramilitaries in Mostar of committing war crimes.  In the process of this horrid war, the Old Bridge was hit numerous times by Croat shelling.  Finally it did completely collapse.  The destruction of the bridge is seen as a symbol of the extreme rupture between the warring ethnic groups.

After the end of the war, the Old Bridge was rebuilt.  Nowadays, it stands as it did prior to the war.  Although it is a simple bridge, it is quite beautiful.  It connects the town over the Neretza River, and is surrounded by quaint cobble stone streets full of artisans and souvenir sellers.  Also, one can see many mosques lining the old town. 

However, the town no longer is a hub of diversity and multi-ethnic peace.  Now it is completely separated.  The old town is mainly populated by Bosniaks, while “New Mostar” is made up of Croats.  We visited the western, Croat populated part of the city on our way to speak to members of the HDZ Party (Croat Democratic Union).

On our way to the HDZ building, I came across the Spanish Square.  During the Bosnian War, UN Peacekeepers from Spain died in Mostar.  In total 23 Spanish nationals lost their lives.  A memorial lies in the center of the square.  A bit farther up the road there is an Honorary Spanish Consulate as well.

After walking through the Croat part of Mostar, we finally reached the HDZ building.  This party is the largest representative of the Croat people in Bosnia-Herzegovina.  Mainly, they spoke about reforming the constitution and the election law so that Croat people can elect their own President.  In Bosnia there are three Presidents; one is Bosniak, one is Croat, one is Serb.  The way it is now, everyone has one vote.  Thus, they claim that since Bosniaks are the majority, they can elect the Croat President that they prefer, even though Croat people do not necessarily vote for him/her.  Their claim is legitimate and they made good points.  However, for an hour and a half we listened to grievances and heard no plan.  There was no strategy, economic plan, constitutional reform proposals, or anything presented to us.  Also, although they are a party in Bosnia-Herzegovina, and claim that they are not separatists who want to join Croatia, they have no vision for national unity.  They believe that it is impossible.

The two people with whom we spoke to were very young and bright.  However, their negative character towards the future of Bosnia-Herzegovina and their lack of vision troubled me for the future.  In the end, I walked out extremely frustrated.  However, they are an important player in the domestic politics of their country, and will be significant in the future of Bosnia-Herzegovina.

Overall, my time in Mostar was very nice.  The city is quite small, but I enjoyed my stay.  The city attracts many tourists, so there is hope for the economic development of the area.  I hope that socially Bosnia-Herzegovina will push forward as well.  Although the situation is grim, there are certain glimpses of hope.