From the beginning of July 2011 to the first week of August, I will be in the Balkans. The goal of this trip is to study the Yugoslav conflicts of the 1990's and the transition to relative peace and stability in the region. Certainly it will be an exciting and insightful field study, as I will be able to extensively study a historic region that has seen years of stability interrupted by brutal warfare, and is now seeing a return to prosperity and progress.
Tuesday, July 19, 2011
Day 14: Niš, Serbia
This morning we left Belgrade and we drove off to Niš, in the south-central part of Serbia. The drive was interesting at best, as our bus broke down 20 km from Niš. The motor of the bus failed and we had to wait for another bus to arrive that would take us into the city.
Finally after three hours of driving and around an hour of we reached Niš. First, we went to an archaeological site of an ancient Roman villa. Niš is known for having been the land where Emperor Constantine, who was the first emperor to convert to Christianity and made it legal to practice Christianity throughout the Roman Empire. Of course, Constantine is also known for converting the Greek colony of Byzantium into the capital of the Eastern Roman Empire. The city would come to be known as Constantinople, and now is known as Istanbul. Anyway, this complex is currently being excavated. While the lecture on the history of the region and the role of the Roman Empire in Niš was interesting, it was disappointing to not be able to see any of the precious relics of the villa. This was due to the fact that the relics were transferred to a museum in order to better protect them. It was sad to hear that this archaeological site, which in my humble opinion seems incredibly important (as it deals with the birth city of one of the most famous Roman Emperors), is not funded by UNESCO or the EU, and does not receive too much money from the Serbian government. This is a shame, as such sites should be protected and funded, as they then enrich the culture and history of the country and therefore attract more tourists.
After this visit, we went to a church which houses a block of human skulls. It sounds incredibly bizarre, and in reality, it is. When you walk into the church you see a 5 meter x 5 meter block full of human skulls. The story behind it is that in the latter half of the 19th century, Serbs fought the Ottomans and were greatly outnumbered. Although the Ottomans lost a great amount more of troops than the Serbs, they chose to grossly display their military might by placing the skulls of the fallen Serbs on a wall. It is an extremely morbid site, but it is fascinating nevertheless.
I later took a walk through the city, strolling through a Turkish fort, and a pedestrian walkway full of cafes.
On a curious note, we had a coffee at a communist themed cafe named "Broz Club" (after the Yugoslav leader). Cardboard cut-outs of Che Guevara, Fidel Castro, Mao Zedong, Muammar Qaddafi and Josip Broz Tito adorned the outside terrace.
Anyway, today was a very tiring day. I am extremely excited to visit Pristina, Kosovo tomorrow. Hope to tell you some more tales from my journey soon!
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