Yesterday was perhaps one of the best learning experiences of the trip thus far. A group of us went to see Partizan, one of Serbia'a most important football teams. They were playing their Champions League Qualifying match against Skendija, an Albanian team who plays in the Macedonian League. As you may know, Serbs and Albanians have a very hostile relationship due to the issue of Kosovo. Kosovo is populated by a majority of ethnic Albanians who claim independence. Thus, tensions are very, very high.
We arrived near the stadium and saw waves of men with black and white shirts and flags with the Partizan crest. It was quite the scene, as you could tell you were inching closer and closer to the stadium, as the noise levels would increase with every step. After buying tickets, we entered the stadium. The Stadion FK Partizan, the club's stadium, is not very impressive. It was built in 1949, and one can tell that it a communist style architecture. A very simplistic and gray style covers the inner and outer walls. Inside is a different story. The relatively small stadium (32,000 people) is a cauldron. Fans are shouting at the top of their lungs and singing in unison their favorite chants. Serbian flags flood the stands. It was really an amazing sight to see.
Finally the game began. Early in the first half, the Albanian team had the chance to score a penalty. As the player put the ball on the ground and prepared himself to strike, the crowds, or mobs of people, began shouting extremely racist and horrifying chants. The stadium felt like a boiling pot about to explode. The player, facing an incredible amount of pressure, missed the spot kick. After that the crowds began to unleash many anti-Albanian chants. Throughout the game, I also heard chants praising Ratko Mladic, the war criminal who is now detained in The Hague. There were many chants for Kosovo as well, claiming the territory as Serbian and saying that they will never give it up. These chants I believe are fine, but when you start viciously insulting an entire nation with extreme hatred, you have crossed the line.
Fanatics, of course, are everywhere. My team Real Madrid has psychotic fans who act with extreme stupidity at times. Italian, German, and English fans are also known to be very rowdy and provocative. The difference is that when German fans, for example, sing racist chants, the team faces heavy fines and a possible shut down of the stadium. And, the culprits face fines and possibly imprisonment. Thus, while insane hooliganism exists everywhere, there are penalties in most Western European leagues. Partizan fans sang their chants without much fear of being punished.
The Partizan game does not represent regular Serbian society. Many people may agree with some of the political themes (Kosovo, Mladic), but at least are more respectful towards other nations. The Partizan ultras represent the far right and extremist sector of society. However, it is frightening that people think with such incredible hatred. I was extremely shocked to say the least. I understand that deep rooted ethnic problems still exist, and the people of the region have been in war recently, but they also want to show that they are modern. And many want to enter the EU. From what I saw yesterday, I would conclude that Serbia is not ready to enter the EU and their society has open wounds that have yet to heal. And many, it seems, prefer to not heal such wounds, as hate is all they know. Thankfully, Serbian society is not characterized by football hooligans. There are extremely intelligent and progressive people in society that will do everything they can to improve their country and move towards a better future characterized by mutual respect and understanding.
Oh, and the score was Partizan 4 - Skendija 0. The Serbian side had an amazing second half where everything seemed to go well. Of course, as seen by my previous rant, the story of the match was not on the field.
If you are interested in the topic of sports and its relationship to society and politics, you absolutely should read Franklin Foer's How Soccer Explains the World: An Unlikey Theory of Globalization. It is a rather exceptional book.
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